You would think coming out of Colorado we would get tired of blue skies and warm perfect weather, but you would be wrong...we have fallen in love with the concept of permanent spring. Bolivia tops even Ecuador in clear weather. The combinations of blue, blue skies and stark white buildings is a treat for the eyes, add in some green in the beautiful courtyards of the traditional colonial houses, red tiled roofs, yellow. pink, orange, and purple flowers drifting off the buildings and you're captured...why would you ever want to leave

Living here in Sucre, home to the second oldest University in the western hemisphere (St Francis Xavier 1652, 35,000 students) including great medical and dental schools, we decided to take advantage of one of the hundreds of dentist offices here and check out what it was like to go to a dentist in a developing world country. Christine hates the Dentist in any country and has avoided going for the last three years. Not giving her a chance to worry about it, we walked into the first place we saw. Not only was it just like any other dentist's office you've ever seen, the whole process was the same. Now we both have perfect teeth again, cavities cost $21 to fix, a full mouth cleaning was $54. No receptionists...when you walk in you see the Dentist...if he's busy with another patient he just tells you to wait.

People visiting down here for a couple of days, checking out South America, always ask us...What do you do all day? Don't you get bored? We never know exactly how to answer this...we know our days are packed, we write, we work on internet projects, we explore brand new places, we workout, we walk, we enjoy the sunset everyday, we spend a whole lot of energy and time communicating in and understanding a new language and culture, we eat (great food), we play, we email friends and relatives, we create new ideas and programs and put them in front of people...oh, and we're creating a brand new life, full of adventure and challenge. How would you answer this question...what do you do all day?

We are in our new apartment in Sucre, Bolivia now and loving it. Bolivia is closer to Colorado and the American west than the countries of northern South America; Colombia, Ecuador, Peru etc... and it has more of that wide open western feel to it. Huge, deep blue skies that go on forever are framed by ridge upon ridge of jagged mountains. This is not a soft country, nor a packed one...other than in a few cities like La Paz, Santa Cruz and Sucre most of where you travel is just plain empty, think Arizona, Utah, Nevada and western Colorado and you will have a good picture. That said, the towns and cities that are here are spectacular and fun. There is an outdoors mentality bursting at the seams wanting to be outside in the sun and the stunning surroundings. From "Death Road" downhill bike rides to 4-wheeling across the salt flats of the Salar, even just having a drink in an outdoor courtyard this culture loves its landscape and its weather. It is the wild west for people who like to go hard and challenge themselves.

But no need to suffer, check out our apartment, sitting on the hillside just six blocks from the main square, this two bedrooms 900 square foot place is all you could ever want and more. Walls of windows let a flood of sunshine in and at night the whole city sparkles below us. We're not moving:)

    1)  Buy 100 roses and leave them for the maid…not as crazy as it seems. You can buy bundles of twenty-five beautiful long-stemmed roses for $4 almost anywhere. With a little haggling, you might get one hundred for $10. A vase called a “florero” can be had for just two dollars more. Enjoy the amazing colors and delicious scent every time you walk in your room, and the house cleaner will love it when you walk out.

 

2)  Stroll up the rushing Tomebamba River through the old and new neighborhoods of Cuenca. Start at Carolina Bookstore just off Hermano Miguel and Calle Larga from there head south and walk down the always busy flight of steps to the river below. At the river turn right and follow the brick and cobblestone walkways as they head upriver. A feast for the senses and a good glimpse of the differing sides of Cuenca, indigenous families washing clothes, spectacular colonial buildings spilling down the bluff, fifteen-story modern apartment towers, goat herders, an occasional cow, eucalyptus groves, views of the Andes. Watch out when crossing streets, pedestrians are not high on the priority list down here.

3)  Watch the latest from Hollywood at the Multicine in the Millenium Mall. An eight-minute walk from the Calle Larga. Head down the steps at Hermano Miguel, cross the Rio Tomebamba and then slalom through the runners and walkers in the always busy health nuts paradise of “Parque de la Madre” turn left at the Planetarium, cross the street to the Millenium Mall. Movies appear in Spanish either translated or with under-titles the same day they start in the US. Don’t faint when the ushers open the doors and thank you warmly for coming.

4)  Enjoy a “cono” and espresso in the Parque Calderon’s Tutto Freddo while soaking up the sun, enjoying the beautiful gardens, and watching the locals. This European style ice cream shop fifty-steps from the Cathedral’s front door is an institution in Cuenca. Cakes, ice cream, sorbets, coffees, they have it all. Ago first to the cahier and ask for “un cono simple y un espresso”, $1.80 total. She will give you a receipt, which you hand to the counter attendants, tell them  “para llevar” (carry out). Take the mouth-watering treasure across the street, into the lush gardens of the park, sit back, and enjoy.

5)  Have an English wool jacket tailor made for you. Head into any tailor “Sastre” in the central area and gesture to them you want a new suit. They will show you all kinds of materials, choose one, and then get measured. Most can have your new jacket or suit done in two days. English cashmere will be $20 - $40 a yard and the tailoring will be $60 for a sports coat.

6)  Take language lessons at Simon Bolivar Language School a block and a half from “Parque Calderon” available from 8 – 12 or 2 – 6 everyday. It’s $8 per hour for private lessons and worth every penny. Don’t miss joining in the fun between 6 and 7 each evening at the Salsa, Merengue and cooking lessons.

7)  Take a nap on Thursday afternoon so you can be fresh for the 10 pm live music at La Parola. This hip club sitting on an outdoor balcony above the river at Calle Larga and Hermano Miguel will be empty at 9:30 and packed by 11. Remember when you leave you need to show your receipt to the doorman, it’s the law in Ecuador.

8)  Go bowling at Mall del Rio. This big mall on the Tarqui River three miles or a $2.50 taxi ride from the center of town has a fun bowling alley, and scores of restaurants and shop. The bowling alley is hidden in the Fun Zone and is exactly like what you would find anywhere in the US, except the price is 1.99 a game, shoes included, and everyone around you will be yelling Strike! But in Spanish.

1) Do not assume that anybody you meet will speak English. Many do but they learned it in high school and are about as comfortable with it as you are with your high school German and French.

2) Do not drive, Ecuadorian drivers are crazier than Italians, and the bus and truck drivers are professionally crazy. They have atrocious accident rates down here. If you are in an accident normal procedure is to take anybody who is not on their way to the hospital or morgue, to jail. Let a taxi or hired car do the driving for you, it’s inexpensive and much safer.

3) Don’t wear safari clothes or shorts, and leave the floppy hats for the golf course at home. The best way to describe central Cuenca is Boston in the mountains, people here dress elegantly and are amazed at what North Americans will wear in public. Blend in better with a pair of nice jeans or slacks, a button down shirt and a sports coat. For women who love clothes (and men too) get out the wallet because this is a small boutique and shoe haven. Walk slowly, window shop and don’t be surprised to find huge stores behind tiny doors.

DO eat the desserts!

We had a great time today...bowling. Yes it's true Cuenca has a bowling alley, if fact it's the latest in technology at the Mall del Rio, a huge Mall about 2 miles away from the central square. It's been so long since I bowled in the US I don't know if $1.99 a game per person including shoe rental is a good deal or not, but I'm not complaining it was a great time! There were good bowlers there too, unfortunately we were not in their ranks, high 90's (that's not good) but what can you expect the first time back in fifteen years. I think we are going to start a Spanish language bowling league, just haven't figured out how to yell out STRIKE!!! of course I need to get one first...

Ken, a reader from the US, sent us a group of question after the Quito conference which are similar to questions we get from a lot of people. We have included the questions and the responses for those of you who might have similar inquiries...if you have any additional questions, you can reach us at kentsadventure@gmail.com
 
Ken's questions...

1.  Climate – is it really as good as the brochures say, 80-50 F. degrees year round?  Not too rainy in the rainy season?

2.  Economics – is it possible to live well (US middle class style) on $20,000 USD per year, including a decent home rental?

3.  Recreation – we enjoy boating/fishing, tennis and golf.  Would such activities be available nearby and would owning an automobile be advisable?

4.  Medical – quality of care, including cardio related diseases, and availability of medical staff and prescription drugs?

5.  Personal safety – any concerns, including drug related activity, etc.?

6.  Expatriate community – although we would want to learn the local language and become involved in the community, we desire association with English speaking people as well – events and social activities?  Could you describe some of these and the number of expatriates in Cuenca?

7.  What attracted you to Cuenta, how long have you lived there, and why have you been pleased personally with your decision to relocate there?

Our responses...

It is true that every day is about 78 degrees here, and every night down in the 50's, for us it's perfect year round mountain summer weather. You will always need a sweater or jacket at night... and if you are walking around in the sun in the middle of the day you will be sweating. The norm at this time of year is clear mornings with clouds moving in around 11. The clouds will usually break-up about four. Every few days we will get a rain and sometimes like last Monday, it will pour. Overall, perfect weather for enjoying the outside. We do not have the long summer evenings usually associated with weather like this. The sun here comes up at 6:15 and goes down at 6:15...by 7 pm it is dark. There is not really a rainy season like you might imagine, there is simply a few months where the chance of the clouds becoming rain in the afternoon is greater than the chance that they will float on by.

Economy, the cost of living down here is literally 20% of what it is in the states, yes you can live here for $12,000 a year. With $20,000 you won't miss anything. All the budgets you have seen in International Living Magazine and in their Postcards are real. Normal rent for locals is about $200 - $400 a month...expensive rent is $800 a month and that is a big, fully furnished, nice place. If you do not learn Spanish you will pay the higher prices...so start learning Spanish first, then rent long-term.

Up here in the mountains we rarely see boats, there simply aren't the lakes you might be used to (although the Gualaceo area has boats in its rivers and is just twenty minutes away) People do fish for trout in the streams and I hear it's great. If you want to boat keep your boat down on the rivers and canals of Guayaquil on the estuarys of the coast, we suggest buying get a Panga or you can head to the Pacific, only 100 miles from Cuenca... everybody has a boat on the coast. The fish from Ecuadors coast are incredible and the shrimp are the same ones you find at your local grocery store. I know there is golf around but haven't played myself, Tennis Clubs would be tied into the Golf Clubs. All would only be found in private country clubs.

Our best advice...If you want to live a long life don't drive down here...Ecuadorians are crazy drivers and the buses and trucks drivers are professionally crazy. The roads and the death and injury rates are the US in the 50's. If you are in an accident everybody not taken to then hospital is taken to jail until the facts get straightened out...take a taxi ($2) hire a driver with car ($10 an hour) or hire a "servicio particular" (a van to popular destinations, $12 to the coast from Cuenca) even take the bus 30¢ in town, $1 an hour anywhere in the country.

Doctors are mainly trained in the US. Prescription drugs are the same ones you find at home (plus some not available in the US) for half price or less, no one seems to need or want a prescription for all but the most powerful narcotic drugs.

We've had no issues regarding personal safety. We do live right in the center of the city with lots of others around. We walk around at night after shows, etc, until very late. Most people in the outer areas probably do not do this as much, nothing going on after 9 pm...but I am not sure they would at home in the US either. Statistically you are safer here than in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. We have seen no drug activity of any kind...the same was true when we were in Medallin, Colombia (now considered one of the safest cities in South America). For the average person living down here the drug war and the scenes you see on TV are as foreign to them as that book about New York gangs we all had to read in high school.

The expat community here is not large, I would guess no more than 150 Americans and Canadians at the most. There are many places to meet them... Carolina Bookstore, Parola's on Fridays, Eucalyptus on the weekends. A website called GringoTree will give you a good idea of what is happening in town. You can sign up for it and read more about life in Cuenca at www.cuencahighlife.com.

We came to Cuenca originally in 2008. We try to spend about six months a year here. This year we are leaving in April to try Sucre, Bolivia for a few months as we have heard it is very similar to Cuenca. We love the beauty of the area and the idea of living in a foreign language and culture. Another couple we met last night from Idaho, down here for the first time, reinforced the idea that without basic Spanish you will not be able to function down here. The good news is it is very easy and inexpensive to learn Spanish once you get here.

Other random thoughts...

As we state in all our talks, don't come down here trying to escape something, it will follow you. Don't expect a new version of the US, it is amazing how similar it is here and yet very different. Do expect to put some time into learning the language, your average day will not include conversations with Americans. Arriving here or in another country to live will make you a member of a tiny, tiny group (maybe less then .01% of the US population) that has gone beyond the planning and the "someday" talk. Things at home will remain more the same then they will change, which means you can try it for a year and go back home and be amazed at how easy it is to slide back into the old life. Life is a lot calmer and more pleasant when you are not plugged into American media 24/7. Finally...don't burn any bridges...anywhere.

Today, make sure to take a walk around the city. You made it up to Turi (Cuenca's balcony) yesterday, now head down the embankment to the Rio Tomebamba and head west (right) up the river along the river path. You can walk three miles along this path, only crossing a few streets. You'll get to see a lot of what Cuenca has to offer. When you get to the cows, the path will end at the playground equipment and circle back around, time to head home...make sure to switch sides and enjoy the walk down on the opposite side of the river.

The bells went on forever this morning, bouncing from one church to the next as if the bell-ringers from across town had heard we were back and were making sure we knew we were home in Cuenca. It sounds crazy but with 52 church towers and hundreds of bells the announcement of Sunday morning mass gets pretty exciting.

It's amazing how easy it has become to get from Quito to Cuenca. What used to be a 10 -12 hour bus or car ride is now ten minutes by taxi from the hotel, a quick $60 purchase on whatever plane is next at the airport, a 2 minute walk through security and out onto the plane. Thirty minutes later and you are on the ground in Cuenca. Although it was cloudy on the way down the "Avenue of the Volcanoes" the massive mountains stuck out as we flew right above the tops.

Our Ecudorian phone number is country code (593) if calling from a US phone, then 08 6078958

Dear International Living Quito Participants,

Thanks for stopping by...this is the place for real-time "daily life" updates on living in South America. Starting tomorrow you will be able to see the good, the bad, the ugly and the gorgeous of SouthAmericanLife...you can check out what the weather is like in reality, how a pet does down here, why you don't want to drive, what we pay for everyday things...challenges, adventure the whole shebang...but tonight you are supposed to be checking out Quito! Take a taxi down to the Palacio del Gobierno and have dinner at  "Los Frailes". Remember, if you see "servicio" on your bill with a number that's 10% of the total, tip is already included, otherwise 10% is the norm. Give yourself plenty of time as food and friends are to be enjoyed slowly here.

If you’re looking for clean, WET, fun, you can’t beat Carnival on the mountain-side of South America. No beads and booze here, it’s all about water, and no one is immune! The hilarity actually starts in the weeks before Fat Tuesday with random water-balloon attacks and the stockpiling of massive water pistols. Every grocery cart and shopping bag brims with canisters of “espuma de carnaval” spray foam like shaving cream that can nail you at 20 feet, yet disappears without a trace a few minutes later. By Friday the weekend before Ash Wednesday it’s a full blown water-pistol war, even the police get in on it, tossing a water-balloon at an unsuspecting crowd below our balcony with the most serious “who us?” looks you have ever seen…right up until they burst out laughing.  

As is true in most cultures, teenage girls are the ultimate targets and dangerous to be near. We made the mistake of walking behind a group all dressed up in their proper school uniforms, only to be blasted by a barrage of water-balloons as a car packed to the gills with similarly dressed teenage boys whizzed by.

By Saturday, the costumes add to the frivolity. It’s like Halloween in the daytime with everybody in the city dressed up and having a good time. Johnny Depp’s Jack Sparrow is palled up with Batman and the two of them are doing their darndest to soak Shrek, who’s using a pool toy to blast away at Cinderella.

Don’t expect anything official to get done on Monday or Tuesday either as most schools and businesses just shut down.

As is always true down here food and family are the focus and you cannot believe the huge spreads that are laid out on the endless picnic blankets. The latest labor saving bounce of tradition is for members of the extended family to bring everything you can imagine but the meat. Huge plates of tender juicy Chancho (spit-roasted pork) are picked up from the markets and restaurants that surround the parks and the whole family digs in.

From the smallest village to the largest city this wonderful family oriented celebration is cause for parades, fair rides, expositions, and blocks of candy booths with every colorful kind of sweet you can imagine. It’s a citywide party and everyone is invited.

There’s no way around it, as tall gringos we stand out both as tempting targets and as people to spare…you can almost see the conflict in the eyes… just before you pull out your own water-balloon and nail them. It’s like shooting fish in a barrel, but once you’ve initiated the battle their revenge is always sweet, and it comes fast, wet, and happy, and that is why we are here.

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Always fresh and hot!